Pizza, Pasta and Prozut

Italian Food? This is something that has been bothering me for a long time. What exactly is Italian food? Ask different people and you get different answers. From my point of view Italian food can be broken down into two areas: Italian/Italian and Italian/American. Italian/Italian is mostly eaten in Italy and Italian/American is consumed in America. Did you notice that I used the words “eaten” for Italy and the word “consumed” for America?

Both cuisines can be very good, but I will say that the variation, between good and bad, is the more pronounced in America. Rarely does one find bad food in Italy and then again good Italian food in America can sometimes be hard to find.

Let’s look at Italian/American food first. When the first immigrants came to our shores the food tradition that they brought with them was for the most part Southern Italian peasant fare. To think that our ancestors ate haute Italian cuisine would be a grave mistake. They ate pasta, pizza and prozut (Prosciutto) or some variation thereof. The taste was wonderful and many of us remember well the smells and tastes of that cuisine. They were not eating or cooking the same way that the gentry were eating in the large cities of Italy, however their food was still very high quality, minimally processed and locally sourced.

Throughout the years this cuisine morphed into what we in America today call Italian food. Unfortunately, it morphed to satisfy the American palate, which in many cases is not well developed. ( Rent the movie “The Big Night” ) Quantity took precedence over quality descending into the abomination that we today call “The Olive Garden”. Some of the worse culprits of this descent are “spaghetti and meatballs”, “chicken parmigiana”, “veal parmigiana” and most things on the menu at “The Olive Garden”. La Pizza, which was invented in Naples, also has had its dumbing down spiral. You can get good pizza in America but it will not be found at Domino's or Papa John’s. There is actually a government entity in Naples that defines what a “real” pizza should be. There are a few places in America that qualify, but most are very far from the mark and so are their tastes.

Most cuisines around the world grow and improve with time. Look at Chinese food for example. After thousands of years they have a cuisine that is varied, delicious and still evolving. For the most part the Italian/American cuisine has devolved into something startlingly standard, bad tasting and getting worse. There are exceptions to every rule, although most are not found in Italian/American restaurants, but in the homes of some second and third generations of Italian/American cooks. Fortunately, I know some of these individuals and they make me happy when I dine with them. Marie and Louise where are you?


Now let’s look at Italian/ Italian cuisine. For those of you who have been fortunate enough to travel to Italy you will know what I mean. Rarely, and I mean rarely does one get a bad meal in Italy. In fact, there are “Howard Johnston” type restaurants that can be found along the large motorways in Italy, called “Autogrilles” that can compete with the best Italian restaurants in America. The one secret ingredient in Italian food is fresh local produce. Seldom are there items on the menus that are not in season. Also, there is a creative culture that exists in Italy that is a force that moves their cuisine to higher and higher levels. They certainly match the Asian cuisines in this respect.

Once you go to Italy you will realize that their food is very dissimilar to what we in America think of as Italian food and a gazillion times better. After a few weeks in Italy my wife and I always dread the thought of coming back to our food. “Where are we ever going to find food like that in America?”, we lament. The truth is, if you look you can find it.

Where can you find it? Probably in most large cities in America there is someone, or more, that knows how to cook Italian. Certainly in New York there are many Italian/Italian restaurants. They may be a little more expensive, but they are worth the price.

Also, and I am not a TV fan, but the Food Channels that show Mario and Lydia are wonderful. I think that they, especially Mario, have done more to change the American palate than anyone else. Mario is GOOD!!! He learned to cook in Italy and he knows the history behind everything he makes. He knows real Italian food. Don’t ask him for chicken parmigiana.

He and Lydia have teamed up with an Italian and opened up a place in New York City called “Eataly”. Google it. This place is 60,000 square feet of food that showcases food from everywhere in Italy. There are different sections, such as the Pizza section, the Pasta section, the Meat section, the Fish section etc. Each section has a restaurant attached to it. I have eaten only at the fish section and I can tell you it was Italy supreme. The original began in Turino, Italy with the second in Tokyo, Japan. The third and I think the largest is in New York. They are looking to open the next in Los Angeles. Look for one in your local area very soon, I hope.

What I urge you to do, if you have not already, is to expand your palate. Find a real Italian restaurant or prepare something that the Mario or Lydia types suggest. For god’s sake, or my sake, don’t go to The Olive Garden.